Saws That Cut Metal

Saws That Cut MetalHow to Tell if a Guy Likes You: Does He Like You? Why are Guys So Hard to Read?

First off, regardless of what your heart tells you or how your mind forces you to think, DO NOT obsess with a guy you can never have. There are so many more fish in the sea, so many more guys you can love who actually deserve your love. Do not ever hurt yourself for some guy who will never learn to appreciate you. The signs are the following:

If you are his candidate for a Booty Call and then he doesn’t know you during the day.

If he uses you.

If he abuses you.

If he hurts you. For instance, he calls you Fat. He doesn’t tease you playfully, he downright treats you like garbage.

If he talks behind your back about you. If he starts rumours about you…

Understand this, guys can really be evil sometimes. Move on if you answered yes to any of the above.

Now that we’ve got that out of the way, here comes the juicy part. How can you tell if a guy likes you? You like him. You feel it in the gut he likes you back. But you need some substantial proof. I will not go into the types of guys out there, because in the end, there will always be a group of guys who have no niche to fall into. These tips are not foolproof, since human nature is always fickle. So, I suggest you read this and use it as a reference and not your bible.

Strategy ONE

Ask him. He says he likes you. Case closed. You are done. But, fearing rejection, can you even do that? If only things were so simple. I’ll tell you this. Just ask him. This will save you a lot of time. If he says no, then you can understand that he doesn’t and may not even after knowing you for a bit of time. Therefore, it will be him who regrets later on when he falls for you in return, granted you guys will hang out and stuff… Maybe not, since if he does reject you, it will be too embarassing… So what you can do is this….

“Do you like me?”

“No.”

“I knew it! I don’t like you either.” Haha!

“Do you like me?”

“Yes, as a friend.”

“Me too. I was worried because I thought you didn’t like me as a friend…” Saved!

If he says he likes you in a way that he likes you likes you and not as friend, then you’ve just scored yourself your dream guy.

Signs that he likes you

He blushes and sweats. You intimidate him.

He stares at you. (He can be a stalker, beware)

He does things to deliberately gain your attention.

He stutters when he speaks to you.

His pupils dilate when you are up close and you see them… Beware, pupils dilate when it is dim, mostly.

He waits for you. He looks out for you.

He laughs at your jokes when no one else does.

He teases you because he wants you to remember and notice him.

He listens to you and actually remembers little details.

He notices slight changes in your appearance.

He seems sad when you ignore him.

He seems jealous when you are with another guy. Whoo.

His friends all know you when you don’t know them.

He smiles back when you smile at him.

He often stares at you and when you catch him, he does that cute head turn, very fast!

He performs sweet acts for you. He defends and protects you. He tolerates you being mean to him.

Signs that he is a player

He is a smooth talker. He is very comfortable around you.

He places his hands on you with ease.

Every other girl likes him.

Just be careful.

There are many more signs, but anyway, just go with your heart, take care of yourself, and let things happen naturally. If it’s meant to be, it’s meant to be.

Saws That Cut Metal

Saws That Cut MetalThe Ways An Air Conditioner Compressor Can Fail, and What To Do About It

Air conditioner compressors usually fail due to one of two conditions: time and hours of operation (wear out), or abuse. There are some failures that can occur elsewhere in the system that will cause a compressor failure, but these are less common unless the system has been substantially abused.

Usually abuse is a result of extended running with improper freon charge, or as a consequence of improper service along the way. This improper service can include overcharging, undercharging, installing the wrong starter capacitor as a replacement, removing (rather than repairing/replacing) the thermal limiter, insufficient oil, mixing incompatible oil types, or wrong oil, installing the compressor on a system that had a major burnout without taking proper steps to remove the acid from the system, installing the wrong compressor (too small) for the system, or installing a new compressor on a system that had some other failure that was never diagnosed.

The compressor can fail in only a handful of different ways. It can fail open, fail shorted, experience a bearing failure, or a piston failure (throw a rod), or experience a valve failure. That is pretty much the entire list.

When a compressor fails open, a wire inside the compressor breaks. This is unserviceable and the symptom is that the compressor does not run, though it may hum. If the compressor fails open, and following the steps here does not fix it, then the system may be a good candidate for a new compressor. This failure causes no further failures and won’t damage the rest of the system; if the rest of the system is not decrepit then it would be cost effective to just put a new compressor in.

Testing for a failed open compressor is easy. Pop the electrical cover for the compressor off, and remove the wires and the thermal limiter. Using an ohmmeter, measure the impedance from one terminal to another across all three terminals of the compressor. Also measure the impedance to the case of the compressor for all three terminals.

You should read low impedance values for all terminal to terminal connections (a few hundred ohms or less) and you should have a high impedance (several kilo-ohms or greater) for all terminals to the case (which is ground). If any of the terminal to terminal connections is a very high impedance, you have a failed open compressor. In very rare cases, a failed open compressor may show a low impedance to ground from one terminal (which will be one of the terminals associated with the failed open). In this case, the broken wire has moved and is contacting the case. This condition – which is quite rare but not impossible – could cause a breaker to trip and could result in a misdiagnosis of failed short. Be careful here; do an acid test of the contents of the lines before deciding how to proceed with repair.

When a compressor fails short, what happens is that insulation on the wires has worn off or burned off or broken inside the compressor. This allows a wire on a motor winding to touch something it should not touch – most commonly itself a turn or two further along on the motor winding. This results in a “shorted winding” which will stop the compressor immediately and cause it to heat up and burn internally.

Bad bearings can cause a failed short. Either the rotor wobbles enough to contact the stator, resulting in insulation damage that shorts the rotor either to ground or to the stator, or end bearing wear can allow the stator to shift down over time until it begins to rub against the stator ends or the housing.

Usually when one of these shorts occur, it is not immediately a hard short – meaning that initially the contact is intermittent and comes and goes. Every time the short occurs, the compressor torque drops sharply, the compressor may shudder a bit visibly as a result, and this shudder shakes the winding enough to separate the short. While the short is in place, the current through the shorted winding shoots up and a lot of heat is produced. Also, usually the short will blow some sparks – which produces acid inside the air conditioner system by decomposing the freon into a mixture of hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid.

Over time (possibly a couple of weeks, usually less) the shuddering and the sparking and the heat and the acid cause insulation to fail rapidly on the winding. Ultimately, the winding loses enough insulation that the inside of the compressor is literally burning. This will only go on for a few minutes but in that time the compressor destroys itself and fills the system with acid. Then the compressor stops. It may at that time melt a wire loose and short to the housing (which can trip your house main breaker) or it may not. If the initial cause of the failure was bad bearings causing the rotor to rub, then usually when the thing finally dies it will be shorted to the housing.

If it shorts to the housing, it will blow fuses and/or breakers and your ohmmeter will show a very low impedance from one or more windings to ground. If it does not short to the housing, then it will just stop. You still establish the type of failure using an ohmmeter.

You cannot directly diagnose a failed short with an ohmmeter unless it shorts to the housing – a shorted winding won’t show up with an ohmmeter though it would with an inductance meter (but who has one of those?) Instead, you have to infer the failed short. You do this by establishing the the ohmmeter gives normal readings, the starter capacitor is good, power is arriving at the compressor, AND an acid test of the freon shows acid present.

With a failed short, just give up. Change everything, including the lines if possible. It is not worth fixing; it is full of acid and therefore is all junk. Further, a failed short could have been initially induced by some other failure in the system that caused a compressor overload; by replacing the whole system you also will get rid of that potential other problem.

Less commonly, a compressor will have a bearing failure, piston failure or a valve failure. These mechanical failures usually just signal wear out but could signal abuse (low lubricant levels, thermal limiter removed so compressor overheats, chronic low freon condition due to un-repaired leaks). More rarely, they can signal another failure in the system such as a reversing valve problem or an expansion valve problem that winds up letting liquid freon get into the suction side of the compressor.

If a bearing fails, usually you will know because the compressor will sound like a motor with a bad bearing, or it will lock up and refuse to run. In the worst case, the rotor will wobble, the windings will rub on the stator, and you will wind up with a failed short.

If the compressor locks up mechanically and fails to run, you will know because it will buzz very loudly for a few seconds and may shudder (just like any stalled motor) until the thermal limiter cuts it off. When you do your electrical checks, you will find no evidence of failed open or failed short. The acid test will show no acid. In this case, you might try a hard-start kit but if the compressor has failed mechanically the hard-start kit won’t get the compressor to start. In this case, replacing the compressor is a good plan so long as the rest of the system is not decrepit. After replacing the compressor, you must carefully analyze the performance of the entire system to determine whether the compressor problem was induced by something else.

Rarely, the compressor will experience a valve failure. In this case, it will either sit there and appear to run happily but will pump no fluid (valve won’t close), or it will lock up due to an inability to move the fluid out of the compression chamber (valve won’t open). If it is running happily, then once you have established that there is indeed plenty of freon in the system, but nothing is moving, then you have no choice but to change the compressor. Again, a system with a compressor that has had a valve failure is a good candidate for a new compressor.

Now, if the compressor is mechanically locked up it could be because of a couple of things. If the compressor is on a heat pump, make sure the reversing valve is not stuck half way. Also make sure the expansion valve is working; if it is blocked it can lock the compressor. Also make sure the filter is not clogged. I once saw a system that had a locked compressor due to liquid lock. Some idiot had “serviced” the system by adding freon, and adding freon, and adding freon until the thing was completely full of liquid. Trust me; that does not work.

Should diagnosis show a clogged filter, then this should be taken as positive evidence of some failure in the system OTHER than a compressor failure. Typically, it will be metal fragments out of the compressor that clogs the filter. This can only happen if something is causing the compressor to wear very rapidly, particularly in the pistons, the rings, the bores, and the bearings. Either the compressor has vastly insufficient lubrication OR (and more commonly) liquid freon is getting into the compressor on the suction line. This behavior must be stopped. Look at the expansion valve and at the reversing valve (for a heat pump).

Often an old system experiences enough mechanical wear internally that it is “worn in” and needs more torque to start against the system load than can be delivered. This system will sound just like one with a locked bearing; the compressor will buzz loudly for a few seconds then the thermal limiter will kill it. Occasionally, this system will start right up if you whack the compressor with a rubber mallet while it is buzzing. Such a system is a good candidate for a hard-start kit. This kit stores energy and, when the compressor is told to start, dumps extra current into the compressor for a second or so. This overloads the compressor, but gives some extra torque for a short time and is often enough to make that compressor run again. I have had hard-start kits give me an extra 8 or 9 years in some old units that otherwise I would have been replacing. Conversely, I have had them give only a few months. It is your call, but considering how cheap a hard-start kit is, it is worth trying when the symptoms are as described.

And this, in a nutshell, is what can happen to an air conditioner compressor and what you can do about it.

Saws That Cut Metal

Saws That Cut MetalHow Woodworking Jigs Can Improve Safety and Precision of Your DIY Project

Woodworking jigs are a necessary part of any woodworking shop. They are great for repetitive tasks in many wood working projects. They make complex projects easier to manage and faster. You can purchase pre made jigs or make your own. Although they are inexpensive, making your own from scrap wood is even cheaper. Depending on the type of projects you like to do, you will need a variety of different jigs.

Types of Jigs

Dovetail jigs are great for making dovetail joints accurately. These can be purchased relatively inexpensively. Another option is to make your own dovetail jig. You can find templates for making your own jigs on the internet or in most stores that sell wood working supplies. Many of these templates allow you to make up to twelve different size jigs.

You may want to puck up a dovetail bit for your router and a dovetail saw. These are great tools if you intend to make your own jigs. Templates allow you to make variable spaced or fixed dovetails for a variety of projects, including cabinets, drawers and small boxes. Some systems come with bits and templates together in one kit. These save money compared to purchasing the components separately.

Dovetail saws are used to cut not only dovetails, but other fine joints for projects. The blades on these saws are thinker than other saws. This allows for greater accuracy. It’s important to purchase a good quality tool for making tight joints and professional looking projects. Look for about fourteen to seventeen points per inch in a good quality saw.

A dowel jig is used for making quality, consistent dowels. If you are using a thick timber, get a self centering jig for better accuracy. There are a variety of sizes from a quarter to one half inch. Complete kits are available that include the dowel jig with several hundred dowels in a variety of sizes. Glue is sometimes included in these kits.

A kreg jig is great for cabinet making. Perfectly positioned slides are necessary if the movement in the drawer is to be smooth. Using kreg jigs save time because you won’t need to measure and mark the spaces for drawer slides. These make it easier to mount metal drawer slides. They can be used for center, bottom or extension mounted drawers. This is an inexpensive, yet versatile piece of equipment.

Making a good jig yourself

Making your own woodworking jigs saves money in supplies. Use inexpensive materials and scrap pieces of plywood for making your own jig. Since you use the jigs for one project only, you don’t want to spend much on materials. If you plan to re use your jigs, use a stronger hardwood to make them.

You can find instructions for making your own jigs in woodworking books or magazines. Instructions are also available on the internet. You can print these out for future reference. Consider getting a good binder to keep your jig making instructions organized in your workshop. Using plastic page covers will protect the instructions from getting dirty, ripped or damaged.

Saws That Cut Metal

Saws That Cut MetalScroll Saw Tips and Techniques – Blade Selection

There are many factors to consider when choosing a scroll saw blade for your project. Thickness of wood, hardness of wood as well as intricacy of the pattern are all things to be weighed.

The first thing you must look at is the intricacy of the pattern. You will need to chose a blade that is small enough to be able to cut in the tightest areas of your pattern without giving you too much trouble. Generally with thicker and harder wood you will want bigger blades however the blade you use must be able to turn within the radius of the sharpest corners of your scroll saw pattern.

Blade Size Numbers

Scroll saw blade sizes are listed using numbers. The higher the number, the bigger the blade is. The numbers can range from as large as #12 to sizes below #0 such as #2/0 (pronounced two aught), #3/0, etc. Generally you won’t be needing anything that’s smaller than #3/0 as they are usually considered jeweler’s blades.

Bigger blades will be both thicker and wider as well as, on average, having less teeth per inch. There is no standard governing these specifications however so there will be slight variation between manufacturers as well as between different series of blades by the same manufacturer.

Size of the blade is not the only thing that affects its ability to turn. Different manufacturing techniques make similar looking blades that behave vastly different from each other and some experimentation may be required to find what brands/series work best for you. A good example of this can be seen by the difference between stamped blades and precision ground (PGT) blades. PGT’s are slightly more expensive but they will start sharper and stay sharp longer than stamped blades. That being said, my favorite blades are stamped and I use them 90% of the time because I am more comfortable with them and have yet to find another blade that’s as easy to control as these.

Blade Types

There are many different types of blades. I will touch on the more common types as well as list their strengths/features.

Regular Tooth – The basic scroll saw blades. Relatively high TPI (teeth-per-inch). Widest range of sizes to choose from.

Hook Tooth – Teeth have a positive rake and blade cuts aggressively. Great for thicker material.

Skip Tooth – Like a regular tooth blade but with about half the TPI. Slower cutting, better chip removal. Blade will stay cooler.

Double Tooth – A hybrid of regular and Vai tooth. The teeth are in pairs followed by a gap.

Reverse teeth – like a normal tooth blade, but the last inch of the teeth pointing in the opposite direction. This makes a clean cut on the back of your work to reduce and minimize burrs later. These teeth can grip the wood of the hill, if not close the project or can not see it quite quickly. During the assembly of these sheets, its position so that onlytwo reverse teeth cut into your wood when the blade is all the way up.

Full Reverse Tooth – Every third tooth in the opposite direction. Has the virtually the same behavior as the regular reverse tooth.

Spiral – The most “different” of all blades. These blades are effectively a normal blade that has been twisted into a spiral so that all sides have teeth. They cut equally well in any direction and thus require a little bit of practice to get used to them. Having teeth on all sides means they will make much wider cuts (thicker kerf lines) however you can cut bigger pieces on the saw more easily because you don’t have to constantly spin your work piece around on the table. Highly detailed portrait patterns are best cut with spirals

Flat End Spiral – Same as spiral but with flat ends for easier installation in the saw. Highly recommended over a regular spiral.

Reverse Spiral – Same as spiral but with every third tooth in the opposite direction for cleaner cuts and less burrs

Metal Cutting Blades – High TPI for cutting metal

All in all, as you work with the different types of blades and experience them first-hand, you will be able to better choose the blade that is right for your scroll saw project and also one that you feel most comfortable working with. I hope these general guidelines will be helpful in getting you started and choosing that perfect blade.

Saws That Cut Metal

Saws That Cut MetalHow to Use Diamond Drilling Equipment in an Effective Way

Diamond core drilling can be an easier operation. It is possible only when you start work with equipment that is suited for that special application. Different models of such equipments are available in the market. They are easy to operate & facilitate us to complete the job easily, efficiently, quickly & perfectly. Light weight, portable diamond core drilling machines & rigs are very much suitable for drilling holes in floors, walls, ceilings & in all concrete blocks as well. Electric, Hydraulic & Pneumatic machines, rotary core & wire line are used for this purpose. Various models in electrical diamond machine are:

• Hand held electric
• Hand held electric mini
• Rig-mounted electric
• Hand held & rig-mounted electric

Han held electric mini machines are ideal for drilling holes within seconds on tiles, concrete & natural stone. Their performance is grade one when drilling is made on granite, counter tops, gravestones and also for plumbing and stonework applications. They can be used for functions like eradicating cracks & avoiding shock.

Han held electric machines are used fir to drill holes in concrete & natural stones. They are faster than rotary hammers. They are ideal for attach & installations. For drilling operation to be smooth without any shock, dust & vibrations, these equipments are employed. They function on quick change system which allows quick elimination of the center core.

Hand held & rig-mounted electric machines are highly potential & are of negligible weight. They are utilized to drill up to 5 inch holes in brick, limestone, cinder blocks & also other rough surfaces. These drilling machines are employed for the purpose of drilling very quickly. Besides, their efficiency is time-tested.

There are many types of hydraulic machines:

• Hand held hydraulic machines
• Rig-mounted hydraulic machines

These hydraulic equipments operate mechanically & they function with electronic implications. They are suitable for drilling operations. They are easy to operate & hence very much in demand for drilling functions. They bring gainful income and are durable, highly protective and very reliable.

The different types of Pneumatic machines are classified into two groups:

• Hand held pneumatic machines
• Rig-mounted pneumatic machines.
These are highly useful for drilling holes in walls, unruly bricks, ceilings, floors & all solid blocks. Diamond core drilling operations create smooth & accurate holes even through reinforced concrete, brickwork & stones. These equipments are used for different installations viz. applications for electrical systems water system, gas supply system, heating system, railway bridge construction & tunnel installation & such works.

Diamond being the hardest material can cut through all substances. Diamond wire cutting refers to the method of using wire saturated with diamond dust of varied sizes to cut through materials. This process is extensively employed as it saves time & money for a long period, saws that use wire saturated with diamond particles are used for cutting purpose. They are able to substitute other cutting tools in laboratories & factories. They are utilized for research, quality control & manufacturing.

The diamond wire technology has been instrumental in cutting nearly any material viz. single crystals, glass, silicon, metals, composites & coated or layered materials. You can expect high accuracy. Diamond does not stop with cutting/drilling/removing strong concrete metal & steel. But, it helps in installing concrete joint scale & fillers. Core drilling & wire cutting industries are developing to a great extent so much so that it goes without saying that diamond owes a lot for the success of the industry.

Internet provides you all the necessary information to locate the best core drilling & wire cutting services. There are many contractors & professionals who are endowed with skill & efficiency to complete the job in record time & well within the estimated budget.

Saws That Cut Metal